Ethnic Eating

        Alas, there comes a time in everyones abroad blogs to write about the amazing food they have been eating. While I have indeed been eating some yummy food, I thought it would be more interesting to describe my attempts at eating new foods: also known as the different ethnic food one can make while only using resources given by France.
      The cravings for some Mexican food started on about day 4 of the trip. Thus, Lea, Sandy, Adrianna, Alina and I embarked on the first of our fancy lunch Fridays. While in the international aisle at Auchan, I could only find tortilla chips in the Mexican food section. No beans, no salsa. The choices were either chips or pre-made, non-refrigerated fajitas. I went to the canned food aisle and searched for something that was remotely like black or refried beans and came across Heinz baked beans...in ketchup. I figured why not and bought them. Our first stab at French made burritos came off better than expected. The beans were weird, but the rest was pretty normal. And thanks to Lia, I now have a can of black beans from the US that will be put to good use next time we venture to make our own burritos.

     

      The next time I had Mexican food was at an actual restaurant in Bordeaux. Skeptical and with some Pepto in my purse, 8 of us went out to eat last week. I had heard from a French friend that the Mexican food in France was better than the Mexican food in Chicago (she lived there for a semester I think) so I figured it was going to be bad, but not horrible. The first (what should have been) warning sign was that instead of tortilla chips on the table, there was trail mix. Yes, trail mix; complete with raisons, banana chips and coconut. Not Mexican, not even French. Second weird sign was that they had sangria. We ordered it and it was good, but that is Spanish, not Mexican. Alas, the food came. I had chicken fajitas (they didn't have burritos on the menu) which was actually quite good given all the warning signs that it was going to be horrible. Not totally Mexican like the good stuff they have in Ventura, but still good for being 6,000 miles away from Mexico. I'd go back.

     On Sunday, I went to the marché with some friends to get some fresh cooked lunch and sunshine. We went to a paella booth and had some rockin' paella and kebobs. I had the kebob because all the paella had seafood in it. It was so fresh and so tasty. Afterwards we got ice cream and strolled in the foreign sunshine. It was only 51 degrees and yet I wanted to be in a dress.

    Speaking of seafood, all you fish loving friends of mine, I am happy to announce that you're wish for me to live with a family that likes fish has come true--its Matthis' favorite food. Thus, we have fish quite often. And I have actually been eating it. Yes, dad, yes Sarah, yes Colin, I like fish now. That is not to say however, that I will eat it all the time, but it is more tolerable now.

    On a not so mouth-watering note, some life updates:

-I dropped grammar to take a photography class that meets every 2 weeks. Today, we spent 3 hours in the studio modeling for each other.

 Madeline- HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

 Lane from Winnipeg

Me

- Trang, Sofie and I saw a super long chain of caterpillars today on the way to lunch! I've never seen anything like this! 

-My facebook has been acting weird and I know that most of the time you can't see my comments on wall posts/pictures/messages. I am trying to fix this but can only wait it out at this point. E-mail is the best form of communication right now.

-I am going to Spain in 9 days! Paris a week from tomorrow to stay with the Portiers for 2 nights and then fly to Barcelona with my cousin Paul. We meet up with my brother in Barcelona! I cannot wait!

- This is where I study

- While walking to the tram on Sunday, I went past église St Pierre and heard music. I went inside to find a full blown gospel choir concert going on. Clapping, cello and everything. It was so neat to hear familiar songs in a gothic style church in the middle of Bordeaux.

The end. I'm going to go eat a baguette now.

These things called les soldes

     I know I know, I've fallen into the typical "I don't blog after the first 3 weeks after being abroad" trap. I swear it will stop. The truth is, now that school has started, Bordeaux life has become a little more routine and a little less new. Then again, I'm living in FRANCE, everything is still more interesting and exciting.
     And really, when you are in France, and you live in the city that has the longest shopping street in Europe, what is more exciting than les soldes? For those of you who don't know, it is mandated by French law to have 2 sale periods a year-one in June/July and one in January/February. So basically, instead of having ridiculous sales just before Christmas like we do in the States, France has it for two different seasons and the stores go WILD.
     Things at H&M that I paid $15 USD for were 5€, makeup was 1€, shoes were selling for -70%. It was ridiculous. It was a nice little welcome gift from France that les soldes started two weeks after I got here--and are still going.
     I came to France without a warm winter jacket and heeled boots. Those were the two things I needed to get, but of course, I walked away with more.

    Ok mom, don't freak out. I added everything up and figured out what I spent and saved. Here is the breakdown of my best steals:
-59.99€ boots, got them for 29.99€
-30€ sweater from H&M, got it for 5€
-50€ sweater from Zara, got it for 19€
    Overall, to buy everything I bought, I would have spent 367.98€, but I spent 162.98€. I'm going to say that was pretty nice.
   Les soldes treated me very well and now that la braderie is over too, I think I am done with shopping for the rest of my trip. Although I never found that winter coat, c'est pas grave, I found my boots...and some other things.

To end, here are some of the weird habits from the last few weeks:
-They put eggs on EVERYTHING- pizza, crêpes, sandwiches
-In lecture hall, it is the seats that collapse and the desks are stationary.
-Medicines are in dissolvable form. Asprin, stomach calmer--everything.
-Pretty much every toilet is a dual-flush toilet; the US should follow their lead
-Another thing the US should do: real, working shutters for all the windows. Not only does it keep the room much darker, but it is also energy efficient because it blocks in all the heat.

A Literal Day Trip

     Today started at 5h30 am. Our train left Gare Ste. Jean at 7h27 and my host family had told me it would take at least 45 mins to get there by tram. I was out of the house by 6h05 and the day was en route. At the same time, Lea, Adrianna, Sandy, Alina and Coral were braving the same -4 degrees C morning from different corners of Bordeaux to go to Bayonne--a small town in Basque country, 11km from the Spanish border.
     As we boarded the train and got settled, the sun began to rise and the first set of laughter exploded. I had just bitten into my banana muffin and found...an entire banana cooked inside. Now, normally, the banana in any sort of baked good is at least mushed up a little, but no, not in France. There was a whole cooked banana in my muffin. Tons of disruptive laughter ensued as everyone tried it.

     We got to Bayonne around 9h30 and it was frigid. I don't think I've ever seen my breathe as white as it was this morning. We had heard that Bayonne was famous for 4 things: mayonnaise, chocolate, ham and walking sticks. The first three were true--the walking sticks, however, were less prevalent to our day.

    After the most advanced conversation in Franglais I've ever had with the woman in the tourist office (simply because neither of us cared what language was spoken), we had our agenda set: wander to find the ham museum, tapas/sangria lunch, and chocolate factory.
     During our wandering, the now-dubbed Tour-guide Sandy taught us about the old chateau (and the new one), the churches and the royal tennis courts (that we never actually saw...). We stopped at a patisserie because the ham museum was closed and had freshly baked chocolatines (The south-west French version of chocolate croissants) and less-freshly baked Basque cakes and cookies. Best. Warm. Chocolatines, Ever. I'm glad the ham museum was closed or else I would have never tasted the euphoric deliciousness that was those chocolatines.

    We went to an outdoor/indoor market, when a choir showed up on the top floor and busted out in perfect harmony--complete with a cello. It feel like a flash mob--French church style...
     We then saught out a restaurant that fit our needs: warm, tapas and sangria. We found one that had patient waiters that put up with our confusing order of 3 appetizers and 2 entrées for 6 people--and 2 pitchers of sangria. This meal was amazing: native ham, salad, asparagus with native mayonnaise, salmon and an array of meat. Topped with the best sangria in the world. Nom nom nom.

     With satisfied stomachs and a ton of laughs, we set off for our dessert at the chocolate factory. After walking for 20 minutes, we finally found the factory in Sketchville, France. But man, was the trek worth it. We learned about how to make chocolate--from bean to bar and got to sample as much as we wanted--ending with a pepper chocolate (weird..). Food coma has never felt so sweet.
    We boarded the train around 5h50, or dusk (hence the title: a literal day trip--we were only in Bayonne when it was light/daytime), and were excited to get out of the freezing air and relax for the two hour train ride back to Bordeaux. Coral and Adrianna were seated in another car while the adventure for Lea, Sandy, Alina and I just got better. While we were eating Alina's hazelnut butter on bread, two older French men and one older French woman were opening beer bottles on the train tables. As we (non-discretely) stared at their skill, they started a conversation that ended with them giving us each a bottle of San Miguel Spainish beer and us giving them hazelnut butter. Fair exchange in my book. Needless to say, Coral and Adrianna missed out. Best train ride yet.

    And honestly, best day here so far. We got out of Bordeaux and back for less than 30e, ate our weight in chocolate for 5e and had a delicious meal for 11.50e. Job well done ladies, and Basque country-- see you for ham week 2011!

A Taste of Wine

    Week 2 down. Wow, time is going by fast. Week 2 meant the end of a routine quickly established but also geting closer to the beginning of the real experience here: school.
   The Intensive Language Program (ILP) ended on Thursday with a ridiculous final grammaire test. French has exceptions to every rule---so imagine a test pretty much based on these exceptions. Horrible. What made it better was that our professor made us homemade canéles, a traditional Bordelais dessert. They taste a bit like doughnuts with a carmel-ish outside. Quite scrumptious when homemade, not so much when store bought.
   Anyways, we went out to celebrate the end of the ILP in what we've dubbed "swankytown" at a pub called Frog and Roastbuf. Swankytown is the old part of the city that is a maze of cobblestone streets and old churches one block away from the river. The drinks were expensive, but the mix of California students and French one's was awesome--not to mention they were playing Queen the whole time.
   Friday we went to Saint Emilion--the cute wine town the Martin-Hedayati's and Mertens' started our biking extraveganza 10 years ago. Little colder this time, but still just as quant. We got a taste of wine--aka only got to try one bottle at the wine manufacturer we went to. It was quite good, but I wish we got to try more. This place manufactures over 100 different Saint Emilion wineries grapes; but that is only about 1/8 of the wineries in Saint Emilion--there are over 800! It was very fun and we got to watch a gorgeous sunset over the vinyards as we left.

Over 5,000 barrels of wine in the cellar

   Friday night we went to a French student's party which was great. So nice to finally meet some French students. This was also the night I learned I have no idea how to flirt in French--oh well, I'll learn.
   Saturday and Sunday were spent exploring the city with friends (french and CA), farmers markets in front of old churches, tours of the city and campus and shopping. Very relaxing days after a rather eventful few previous days. I went shopping on Rue Saint Catherine which is the longest commercial street in Europe. Honestly there were easily 2,000 people there. And I thought the Nordstrom's Half Yearly was good? Try 5 euro cardigans at H&M.

   Overall, week 2 was a success but also a rollar coaster. Lots of hard work, great laughs, some tears and some frustrations. But alas, I am in France so I should really just open the door and take in ever sunrise and sunset.

The habits of the French part deux:
-Quote of the night on Friday: "Oh! You brought champagne! My family lives in a....qu'est-ce que sait le mot?....castle en Champagne and we have a wineyard!" French student telling me about his home.
-They smoke like made inside their apartments...and everywhere for that matter...
-3 aisles of yogurt in the grocery store (Kate-this is your dream!)
-Open container policy--people drink on the tram, in front of the grand theatre, by the river..class ways of getting drunk I guess
-I drink coffee out of a bowl at breakfast with my host family
-Late bus= crazy driver.

Week 1 Reflections

Posting this one a little late, and I should be studying, but whatever. I'm in France!

   Week 1 is pretty much over. This time last week, I was on a plane, figuratively and literally groundless. My family was miles further away every minute and my friends were returning to comfortable Davis. And I was on a plane, about to enter a family I had never met before and speak a language 24/7 that I had only studied for a few hours a week.
   I must admit however, that the transition has been easy thus far. The Brouat's have made me feel completely at home here, the other US students became an automatic support system. We are here for the same reasons. We became close before we even said hello.
   Adrianna, Lea, Sandy, Evelyn, Kirk and I hit it off immediately, as well as with many others. Big groups of us effectively took over Bordeaux. While I want to avoid being pegged as American at all costs, it has been great hanging out with everyone. I guess I'll let it slide for now. And I pass as French on the tram, so ok.
   I feel independent, taking the tram late at night and alone, getting a phone on my own, and getting to and from where I need to be totally by myself. Although part of me still wants an apartment of my own, I am finding my independence--and what is wonderful is that the Brouat's expect it. I was worried about having to check in with them and feeling awkward about going out, but they have told me to do so.
   Tonight, I had a debate with Kareen and Pascal about religion, le porte de vol (Muslim's wearing the burka in public schools), dogmas and the fee hikes at the UCs. I was rather impressed with my comprehension and my french. It was an interesting conversation and I loved getting a native-view.
   I am nervous about the French course, but am feeling for confident (maybe not anymore..figuring that I should be studying for a grammar test right now but am instead doing this...). Hopefully the rest of the intensive language program goes well and my confidence restored a little bit.
   Alright there were the reflections of week 1. I hope I'm disciplined enough to do this every week.

Now to end with, the bizarre habits of the French people: Week 1:
-In the middle of class, for our break, our professor will say "on va boire un café maintenant". So we literally all go to the café and get a coffee/hot chocolate/croissant for 20 mins. No more of that mid-class 5 min break Davis gives us. THIS is a real break. Go France.
-They put French Fries in EVERYTHING. We had kebobs one day (basically Bordeaux's version of the Halah truck in Davis) and put French fries in it. I ordered a ham/cheese baguette at another place, and there were french fries in it. Now I understand why they are called "french" fries.
-I guess the cool kids say "saucé" for cool. So, translated literally, "thats saucy". I haven't been able to bring myself to say this without laughing.

Wandering the Streets of Bordeaux

    So my first week in Bordeaux is coming to a close. It was quite an eventful one but also easier than I anticipated it being. Sure, the whole speaking French thing is super difficult and tiresome, but the adjustment to the Brouat's (my host family) and the intensive language program has been good. I had about 6 hours of grammar classes each day which sucked, but afterwards most of the students would go downtown to explore and get phones/cafés/tram cards. It is fun that all of us are trying to get the same things done at the same time so we can help each other out. Downtown is beautiful and the buildings have so much history in them. I cannot wait to explore further.
     I went for my first run Friday afternoon because class got out early. There is a park in Mérignac (the suburb I live in) called Bois des Bruck...woods of someone famous I'm sure. Gorgeous is an understatement. To get there, its a mile run through some vinyards and then a forest-type thing-wowww. There is a dirt path around the forest and other paths that go through it. There were a tonn of joggers there which surprised and pleased me at the same time. I didn't get a chance to run the whole loop as it was sunset and I was so astonished by the beauty that I honestly would stop in my tracks to take it in. I need to go back there with my camera and try to capture the essence of this place. Needless to say, I think I'll come back in better shape than I had anticipated.

     Friday night, pretty much everyone in my program went out together. We meet at la victoire which is the center of the night life here. Its just, you know, a massive square with bars surrounding it, about 100 other students and a big historic arch in the middle, no big. Really, it was quite the scene. We got there at 11ish and went to Café des Sports which was just an american sports bar but more sketch. It was like a frat really. Tons of people, expensive booze and American top 40. Not my ideal night, but it was a good kick off. I know we were pegged as the American's which I really want to avoid in the future.
    Saturday I met the mom of Pascal, my host dad. She made lunch for us. Somehow, I ended up in a conversation about the police and what they can and can't do in the US if people are drinking underage at a private house party. Pretty sure I butchered that one because I don't know ANY of the vocab for that, but I think they got the basics. After, Mattis (7 year old host brother) hung out in my room for a while and made me play Michael Jackson's "Beat It" 'about 100 times. He is so darn cute.

    Saturday night I met up with Lea, another participant in the program, for un café. We found a super cute italian restaurant on the river that had some bomb desserts. We felt so French even though we spoke English the whole time. That area seemed a little more local and less crazy than la victoire and I can't wait to go to some bars around there.

    I was supposed to go to a party with a French friend of a Davis friend, but was too tired to be super social and the last tram leaves at 1:15 am but he wasn't getting off work til 11. So I just came home. I'm surprised with how comfortable I feel in the city at night. At first I was nervous to take the tram by myself at night, but it has been packed for the last two nights at 12:30 and 1:15. Maybe it's because I have never lived in a city before, but I love having people around all the time. I have honestly felt safe this entire week. Lets hope that continues!
    Anyways, this post is probably more detailed than it needs to be and its poorly written so I'll edit it tomorrow and add pictures.

Bonne Nuit!

My first adventure

OK. So today was the first day of orientation. And as if that wasn't an adventure in and of itself, my morning proved to be even more adventure-filled. The Centre de Californie told me (and all the other participants) that a "parrain" aka a French student or year student was to pick up me up at my house to accompany me to the school for orientation between 10h30-11h00. 11h00 rolled around and my parrain had not shown up. My host mom, Kareen, called her even though she had an appointment that started at 11. The girl forgot that she was supposed to pick me up! And she lived about 30 mins away and orientation started at 11h45. Sooo, since Kareen had an appointment, and my parrain wasn't going to come, I had to find the school by myself. Frantically, Kareen showed me a map of the bus and tram. Luckily she had shown me where the bus stop was a day before and had already explained that I needed to take a bus and a tram to get to the campus. Off I went, down the street to take the bus for the first time, alone, in France, on my first full day in Bordeaux.
     I looked at the bus schedule and the bus that I was supposed to take wasn't going to come until the afternoon. There was another bus that came though, so I asked the driver if it would take me where I needed to go. He said yes and told me when to get off. A super cute old French lady then insisted on taking me to the tram stop and made sure I was on the right one. First stereotype of French people broken. Everyone I've talked to so far are SO nice!
    Anyways, I got the the campus and asked 5 different people for directions to the room I was supposed to be at, and got 5 different directions. Eventually I found the place and assimilated into the 40 something other UC students.
    Orientation was good but kind of boring. Afterwards was more fun because me and a few others went into the city for the first time. Oh my gosh, I already love this city. The architecture is beautiful, there is so much history and there are students everywhere. I met a very nice master student on the tram who was giving me Bordeaux Fun Facts along the 15 minute tram ride. A few other students and I got our French cell phones (19 euros for a SIM card and a phone!) and then went to a year-long student's apartment. Such a cute apartment. It was on the top story of an old building, with slanted roofs and a lofted bed. It was pretty much the epitome of French.

Yes, that is the key to my house. Ridiculously cool. I want to take it back to the US and wear it.
     Yup so that was my first full day here and it did not disappoint. I am looking forward to meeting more people and learning the city better. Tomorrow is the first day of the Intensive Language Program from 8h30 to 5h30. Urggg.. Tomorrow will be more tiresome but I'm pumped.

A bientôt!