A Literal Day Trip

     Today started at 5h30 am. Our train left Gare Ste. Jean at 7h27 and my host family had told me it would take at least 45 mins to get there by tram. I was out of the house by 6h05 and the day was en route. At the same time, Lea, Adrianna, Sandy, Alina and Coral were braving the same -4 degrees C morning from different corners of Bordeaux to go to Bayonne--a small town in Basque country, 11km from the Spanish border.
     As we boarded the train and got settled, the sun began to rise and the first set of laughter exploded. I had just bitten into my banana muffin and found...an entire banana cooked inside. Now, normally, the banana in any sort of baked good is at least mushed up a little, but no, not in France. There was a whole cooked banana in my muffin. Tons of disruptive laughter ensued as everyone tried it.

     We got to Bayonne around 9h30 and it was frigid. I don't think I've ever seen my breathe as white as it was this morning. We had heard that Bayonne was famous for 4 things: mayonnaise, chocolate, ham and walking sticks. The first three were true--the walking sticks, however, were less prevalent to our day.

    After the most advanced conversation in Franglais I've ever had with the woman in the tourist office (simply because neither of us cared what language was spoken), we had our agenda set: wander to find the ham museum, tapas/sangria lunch, and chocolate factory.
     During our wandering, the now-dubbed Tour-guide Sandy taught us about the old chateau (and the new one), the churches and the royal tennis courts (that we never actually saw...). We stopped at a patisserie because the ham museum was closed and had freshly baked chocolatines (The south-west French version of chocolate croissants) and less-freshly baked Basque cakes and cookies. Best. Warm. Chocolatines, Ever. I'm glad the ham museum was closed or else I would have never tasted the euphoric deliciousness that was those chocolatines.

    We went to an outdoor/indoor market, when a choir showed up on the top floor and busted out in perfect harmony--complete with a cello. It feel like a flash mob--French church style...
     We then saught out a restaurant that fit our needs: warm, tapas and sangria. We found one that had patient waiters that put up with our confusing order of 3 appetizers and 2 entrées for 6 people--and 2 pitchers of sangria. This meal was amazing: native ham, salad, asparagus with native mayonnaise, salmon and an array of meat. Topped with the best sangria in the world. Nom nom nom.

     With satisfied stomachs and a ton of laughs, we set off for our dessert at the chocolate factory. After walking for 20 minutes, we finally found the factory in Sketchville, France. But man, was the trek worth it. We learned about how to make chocolate--from bean to bar and got to sample as much as we wanted--ending with a pepper chocolate (weird..). Food coma has never felt so sweet.
    We boarded the train around 5h50, or dusk (hence the title: a literal day trip--we were only in Bayonne when it was light/daytime), and were excited to get out of the freezing air and relax for the two hour train ride back to Bordeaux. Coral and Adrianna were seated in another car while the adventure for Lea, Sandy, Alina and I just got better. While we were eating Alina's hazelnut butter on bread, two older French men and one older French woman were opening beer bottles on the train tables. As we (non-discretely) stared at their skill, they started a conversation that ended with them giving us each a bottle of San Miguel Spainish beer and us giving them hazelnut butter. Fair exchange in my book. Needless to say, Coral and Adrianna missed out. Best train ride yet.

    And honestly, best day here so far. We got out of Bordeaux and back for less than 30e, ate our weight in chocolate for 5e and had a delicious meal for 11.50e. Job well done ladies, and Basque country-- see you for ham week 2011!

A Taste of Wine

    Week 2 down. Wow, time is going by fast. Week 2 meant the end of a routine quickly established but also geting closer to the beginning of the real experience here: school.
   The Intensive Language Program (ILP) ended on Thursday with a ridiculous final grammaire test. French has exceptions to every rule---so imagine a test pretty much based on these exceptions. Horrible. What made it better was that our professor made us homemade canéles, a traditional Bordelais dessert. They taste a bit like doughnuts with a carmel-ish outside. Quite scrumptious when homemade, not so much when store bought.
   Anyways, we went out to celebrate the end of the ILP in what we've dubbed "swankytown" at a pub called Frog and Roastbuf. Swankytown is the old part of the city that is a maze of cobblestone streets and old churches one block away from the river. The drinks were expensive, but the mix of California students and French one's was awesome--not to mention they were playing Queen the whole time.
   Friday we went to Saint Emilion--the cute wine town the Martin-Hedayati's and Mertens' started our biking extraveganza 10 years ago. Little colder this time, but still just as quant. We got a taste of wine--aka only got to try one bottle at the wine manufacturer we went to. It was quite good, but I wish we got to try more. This place manufactures over 100 different Saint Emilion wineries grapes; but that is only about 1/8 of the wineries in Saint Emilion--there are over 800! It was very fun and we got to watch a gorgeous sunset over the vinyards as we left.

Over 5,000 barrels of wine in the cellar

   Friday night we went to a French student's party which was great. So nice to finally meet some French students. This was also the night I learned I have no idea how to flirt in French--oh well, I'll learn.
   Saturday and Sunday were spent exploring the city with friends (french and CA), farmers markets in front of old churches, tours of the city and campus and shopping. Very relaxing days after a rather eventful few previous days. I went shopping on Rue Saint Catherine which is the longest commercial street in Europe. Honestly there were easily 2,000 people there. And I thought the Nordstrom's Half Yearly was good? Try 5 euro cardigans at H&M.

   Overall, week 2 was a success but also a rollar coaster. Lots of hard work, great laughs, some tears and some frustrations. But alas, I am in France so I should really just open the door and take in ever sunrise and sunset.

The habits of the French part deux:
-Quote of the night on Friday: "Oh! You brought champagne! My family lives in a....qu'est-ce que sait le mot?....castle en Champagne and we have a wineyard!" French student telling me about his home.
-They smoke like made inside their apartments...and everywhere for that matter...
-3 aisles of yogurt in the grocery store (Kate-this is your dream!)
-Open container policy--people drink on the tram, in front of the grand theatre, by the river..class ways of getting drunk I guess
-I drink coffee out of a bowl at breakfast with my host family
-Late bus= crazy driver.

Week 1 Reflections

Posting this one a little late, and I should be studying, but whatever. I'm in France!

   Week 1 is pretty much over. This time last week, I was on a plane, figuratively and literally groundless. My family was miles further away every minute and my friends were returning to comfortable Davis. And I was on a plane, about to enter a family I had never met before and speak a language 24/7 that I had only studied for a few hours a week.
   I must admit however, that the transition has been easy thus far. The Brouat's have made me feel completely at home here, the other US students became an automatic support system. We are here for the same reasons. We became close before we even said hello.
   Adrianna, Lea, Sandy, Evelyn, Kirk and I hit it off immediately, as well as with many others. Big groups of us effectively took over Bordeaux. While I want to avoid being pegged as American at all costs, it has been great hanging out with everyone. I guess I'll let it slide for now. And I pass as French on the tram, so ok.
   I feel independent, taking the tram late at night and alone, getting a phone on my own, and getting to and from where I need to be totally by myself. Although part of me still wants an apartment of my own, I am finding my independence--and what is wonderful is that the Brouat's expect it. I was worried about having to check in with them and feeling awkward about going out, but they have told me to do so.
   Tonight, I had a debate with Kareen and Pascal about religion, le porte de vol (Muslim's wearing the burka in public schools), dogmas and the fee hikes at the UCs. I was rather impressed with my comprehension and my french. It was an interesting conversation and I loved getting a native-view.
   I am nervous about the French course, but am feeling for confident (maybe not anymore..figuring that I should be studying for a grammar test right now but am instead doing this...). Hopefully the rest of the intensive language program goes well and my confidence restored a little bit.
   Alright there were the reflections of week 1. I hope I'm disciplined enough to do this every week.

Now to end with, the bizarre habits of the French people: Week 1:
-In the middle of class, for our break, our professor will say "on va boire un café maintenant". So we literally all go to the café and get a coffee/hot chocolate/croissant for 20 mins. No more of that mid-class 5 min break Davis gives us. THIS is a real break. Go France.
-They put French Fries in EVERYTHING. We had kebobs one day (basically Bordeaux's version of the Halah truck in Davis) and put French fries in it. I ordered a ham/cheese baguette at another place, and there were french fries in it. Now I understand why they are called "french" fries.
-I guess the cool kids say "saucé" for cool. So, translated literally, "thats saucy". I haven't been able to bring myself to say this without laughing.

Wandering the Streets of Bordeaux

    So my first week in Bordeaux is coming to a close. It was quite an eventful one but also easier than I anticipated it being. Sure, the whole speaking French thing is super difficult and tiresome, but the adjustment to the Brouat's (my host family) and the intensive language program has been good. I had about 6 hours of grammar classes each day which sucked, but afterwards most of the students would go downtown to explore and get phones/cafés/tram cards. It is fun that all of us are trying to get the same things done at the same time so we can help each other out. Downtown is beautiful and the buildings have so much history in them. I cannot wait to explore further.
     I went for my first run Friday afternoon because class got out early. There is a park in Mérignac (the suburb I live in) called Bois des Bruck...woods of someone famous I'm sure. Gorgeous is an understatement. To get there, its a mile run through some vinyards and then a forest-type thing-wowww. There is a dirt path around the forest and other paths that go through it. There were a tonn of joggers there which surprised and pleased me at the same time. I didn't get a chance to run the whole loop as it was sunset and I was so astonished by the beauty that I honestly would stop in my tracks to take it in. I need to go back there with my camera and try to capture the essence of this place. Needless to say, I think I'll come back in better shape than I had anticipated.

     Friday night, pretty much everyone in my program went out together. We meet at la victoire which is the center of the night life here. Its just, you know, a massive square with bars surrounding it, about 100 other students and a big historic arch in the middle, no big. Really, it was quite the scene. We got there at 11ish and went to Café des Sports which was just an american sports bar but more sketch. It was like a frat really. Tons of people, expensive booze and American top 40. Not my ideal night, but it was a good kick off. I know we were pegged as the American's which I really want to avoid in the future.
    Saturday I met the mom of Pascal, my host dad. She made lunch for us. Somehow, I ended up in a conversation about the police and what they can and can't do in the US if people are drinking underage at a private house party. Pretty sure I butchered that one because I don't know ANY of the vocab for that, but I think they got the basics. After, Mattis (7 year old host brother) hung out in my room for a while and made me play Michael Jackson's "Beat It" 'about 100 times. He is so darn cute.

    Saturday night I met up with Lea, another participant in the program, for un café. We found a super cute italian restaurant on the river that had some bomb desserts. We felt so French even though we spoke English the whole time. That area seemed a little more local and less crazy than la victoire and I can't wait to go to some bars around there.

    I was supposed to go to a party with a French friend of a Davis friend, but was too tired to be super social and the last tram leaves at 1:15 am but he wasn't getting off work til 11. So I just came home. I'm surprised with how comfortable I feel in the city at night. At first I was nervous to take the tram by myself at night, but it has been packed for the last two nights at 12:30 and 1:15. Maybe it's because I have never lived in a city before, but I love having people around all the time. I have honestly felt safe this entire week. Lets hope that continues!
    Anyways, this post is probably more detailed than it needs to be and its poorly written so I'll edit it tomorrow and add pictures.

Bonne Nuit!

My first adventure

OK. So today was the first day of orientation. And as if that wasn't an adventure in and of itself, my morning proved to be even more adventure-filled. The Centre de Californie told me (and all the other participants) that a "parrain" aka a French student or year student was to pick up me up at my house to accompany me to the school for orientation between 10h30-11h00. 11h00 rolled around and my parrain had not shown up. My host mom, Kareen, called her even though she had an appointment that started at 11. The girl forgot that she was supposed to pick me up! And she lived about 30 mins away and orientation started at 11h45. Sooo, since Kareen had an appointment, and my parrain wasn't going to come, I had to find the school by myself. Frantically, Kareen showed me a map of the bus and tram. Luckily she had shown me where the bus stop was a day before and had already explained that I needed to take a bus and a tram to get to the campus. Off I went, down the street to take the bus for the first time, alone, in France, on my first full day in Bordeaux.
     I looked at the bus schedule and the bus that I was supposed to take wasn't going to come until the afternoon. There was another bus that came though, so I asked the driver if it would take me where I needed to go. He said yes and told me when to get off. A super cute old French lady then insisted on taking me to the tram stop and made sure I was on the right one. First stereotype of French people broken. Everyone I've talked to so far are SO nice!
    Anyways, I got the the campus and asked 5 different people for directions to the room I was supposed to be at, and got 5 different directions. Eventually I found the place and assimilated into the 40 something other UC students.
    Orientation was good but kind of boring. Afterwards was more fun because me and a few others went into the city for the first time. Oh my gosh, I already love this city. The architecture is beautiful, there is so much history and there are students everywhere. I met a very nice master student on the tram who was giving me Bordeaux Fun Facts along the 15 minute tram ride. A few other students and I got our French cell phones (19 euros for a SIM card and a phone!) and then went to a year-long student's apartment. Such a cute apartment. It was on the top story of an old building, with slanted roofs and a lofted bed. It was pretty much the epitome of French.

Yes, that is the key to my house. Ridiculously cool. I want to take it back to the US and wear it.
     Yup so that was my first full day here and it did not disappoint. I am looking forward to meeting more people and learning the city better. Tomorrow is the first day of the Intensive Language Program from 8h30 to 5h30. Urggg.. Tomorrow will be more tiresome but I'm pumped.

A bientôt!

I'm with Alizée!

January 4, 2011: 5h30

I’m here! Or at least, in Andeville with the Portier’s and Alizée! Alizée picked me up from the airport and we were wearing the same thing- weirddd. I guess we are still on the same wavelength even being countries and continents apart. She taught me how to grocery shop (so cool! Here they have individual scanners and buy while they shop. I am impressed and think we should do that back in the States) and then we went back to her house. Les champs (the fields that are the Portier’s back yard basically) have snow patches on them, which was beautiful. Véronique wasn’t feeling well but it was good to see her nonetheless.
I watched the TV show the Portier’s were on back in September. It was exactly the same as Family Feud. They made the second round but then were eliminated. Still, hilarious to see them on TV and try to understand the host.
Alizée and I had a photoshoot as always and haven’t stopped laughing. She will be in England while I’m in Bordeaux, but we are planning on visiting each other at least once. I love that I have this family I can come to if I ever get homesick, lonely or just need some good food ☺. The Portier’s are truly special people and I am proud that I am their “American daughter.”
My flight to Bordeaux leaves at 10h35 and then I will really be thrown into an unknown world. Lea, Sandy, the other two girls studying in Bordeaux from Davis, and I are all on the same flight. I’m excited to see them and embark on this journey together. My host mom, Kareen Brouat, is picking me up from the airport. I imagine over the next few days, I’ll be thrown head first into the French language and culture. I will be tired, overwhelmed and ecstatic. Lea, Sandy and I have plans to get lost in Bordeaux later today. Can’t wait!

In flight.

January 2, 2011: Dallas – Paris

So here I am, actually on the plane. En route to France. Ever since my mom told me what study abroad was back in middle school, I have been waiting for this day. I looked at colleges just to see what their abroad programs were and made decisions that way. I have envisioned this day for so long, and now that the reality of it is upon me, I must admit, it is a little surreal. I feel like I’m in a dream state. I know I am leaving behind many loved ones, that I am about to go on an adventure, that I am going to come back changed.
Now, I cannot pinpoint all those changes. Perhaps I’ll be fluent in another language; perhaps I’ll be leaving behind a French family that has become like another family to me, perhaps a group of foreign friends. I can only hope that those things do indeed come true, but those are not the ones I am really excited for. It is the unknown morphesis that is making me anxious, excited, and adrenaline-filled.
France: a country known to me, Bordeaux: a new French city for me. It is the unknown that will shape me the most. A city unfamiliar will transition into familiar, a language studied will transform into a language spoken. A nationality admired will become my own. Who knows what great times I’ll have on this voyage. Who knows how long it will take me to adjust. But I don’t focus on that. The fact of the matter is, that I am going to have experiences, I will adjust and I will live a dual life.
Right now I am above the clouds and crystal blue sky is above me. The world (or at least Europe) is mine for the exploring. I am nervous and excited, happy and sad, nostalgic and futuristic. All in all, I am pumped. Let’s see how this unfolds. Let’s see if I make my connecting flight in Dallas. Let’s do this.